"Bien Manger pour Bien Vivre"

Sunday, 17 May 2015

And more camera...

Dundee Rambler growing through Trachelospermum, in a corner of the Old Orchard


The Old Orchard, looking towards the Well-house
Emerging from the Old Orchard into the main garden
Roses, under the SE Pergola
Entrance to the Old Orchard, under the Weeping Poplar
Tonight's Dinner:

Terrine of Foie Gras with toasted brioche

Saltimbocca alla romana; zucchini sauteed in butter and thyme

Apple Croustades with Crème Frâiche

Thursday, 14 May 2015

The new camera...

has arrived!

The path behind the church



The south-east pergola





The church, from amongst the soft fruit bushes
NE corner of the north lawn
Buddleia alternifolia, looking Rousseau-esque
Pierre de Ronsard (looking coy)
Under the East pergola
The agrumi lawn

Tonight's dinner:

Black risotto

Boned rabbit, stuffed with herbs and parma ham, pot roast

Burnt lemon cream, with blackberry filling

Wednesday, 6 May 2015

I stand corrected (ish)

It seems that I was mistaken in reporting that the TD served 'samphire' as one of the garnishes for his Masterchef weekend, last week....I have always assumed that samphire and agretti are just different names for the same thing. It appears from this recent article in the Independent that this is not so.
 
It was definitely agretti that we were served with our black risotto.
 
But, at the same time, I think somebody has been pulling the leg of Cahal Milmo, the hapless writer of the piece in the Indie. Either that, or supermarkets in Tuscany can expect ravening hordes from Umbria and Lazio to sweep over the borders in great numbers practically at any moment. Last time I looked, agretti was sitting peacefully (and untroubled by grasping hands) on the shelves of my local Esselungha...in pretty impressive quantities, too. Could it be that the story was actually a load of old cods?
 
Tonight's dinner (still leftovers):
 
Terrine of Foie Gras with toasted brioche
 
Grilled Pork Chops with Pommes Parisiens
 
Apple Croustades. 
 
 
 
 

Monday, 4 May 2015

Masterchef 2015


Has been generally acclaimed a triumph! Three days of intense (but not too intense) slaving in the kitchen, to excellent effect.

On Friday, the TD produced a black risotto of exquisite richness (garnished with scallops and samphire), which was followed by oven-poached chicken breasts accompanied by mouth-watering miniature baked potatoes, stuffed with a tarragon/guanciole mixture (Jennie's contribution), served with a sauce of piopini
mushrooms,  and we finished off with individual pithiviers, filled with a walnut frangipane, and served with caramelised walnuts and a pistachio crème anglaise.That last was mine....note to self: in future, for individual pithiviers, roll the pastry to 2mm thickness rather than 4mm, or else the pastry fights against the filling.

Saturday: weather was lousy, and so we spent the day indoors, poring over books of recipes. Jennie decided to ditch the chocolate torte she had intended to make, and instead she produced a chocolate medley of egg-white chocolate soufflé alongside an ice cream of white chocolate,
layered with raspberries which had been macerated in grappa. The soufflés were wonderfully indulgent and much richer and more luxurious than the version I usually make (so, I'm going to have to change habits), and rose to towering perfection. That was preceded by another done-two-ways production, when TD served magret de canard, pan-seared and then finished in the oven, alongside deliciously crisp confit de canard (made two days previously), and accompanied by  individual pommes anna, and vignole. A sauce of deceptive simplicity (a litre of stock, made from the duck bones, reduced to about 75 ml, and then thickened at the last minute, off the heat, with a nut of cold butter). And to start with, that evening, we had a terrine of foie gras, which I'd made earlier in the week (Mossiman's recipe, where the pieces of liver are marinated beforehand in port and brandy, and an improbably long and complicated list of spices, which
end up being subtle and beguiling in the finished dish). My contribution on the day was to make brioche, slices of which, lightly toasted,  were served with the foie gras, all helped on their way by a not-half-bad sauternes.

And then, last night, we coasted home, standards not slipping, with a starter (Jennie's) of velouté of asparagus, in which were tiny new potatoes (jersey royals, by preference) and flakes of seared salmon fillet; then, I produced spit-roast lamb shoulder, which had been stuffed with a  mixture of mint, garlic, beef suet, cream, and diced shallot flambeed in cognac, served with a lamb/cream/mustard sauce, and flageolets, warmed through with chopped sage and
shallots. The latter helped on its way by a splendid 2010 Torres Mas la Plana. And then, into the home strait, with a napoleon of chocolate crisps, interleaved with  layers of pears, poached and diced and mixed with honey, and garnished perfectly with a few leaves of nepetella, from the garden.

We were all so pleased with the general results and experience that we didn't bother awarding individual prizes, but just started to discuss what we might think of doing for next year's event (which will be the tenth anniversary of the first time we did it, and so requires particular effort).

Tonight's dinner (leftovers):

Feuillete of mushrooms, sauteed in butter with tarragon, with a poached egg and mustard hollandaise.

Grilled chicken legs; green salad

Crepes, with frangipane filling.

Saturday, 25 April 2015

April 25th...

Liberation Day, in Italy. One of those many national holidays which jump up and catch the unwary, with the fact that everything is unexpectedly closed...but (after only thirteen years here) it has now sufficiently entered our consciousness that we're ready for it, when it comes round yet again. An unkind question would be to ask precisely from what it is that the Italians are celebrating having been liberated, given their somewhat chequered history during the early forties - and, as Charles says, there isn't an Italian from that period alive today who wouldn't swear on the grave of their father that they had all along been supporters of the allies, and had opposed to the death those awful, occupying (well, after the armistice, anyway...) Germans. Not a subject for dinner party chatter, when all's said and done.
The bells rang long and loud from Santa Caterina, this morning - I imagine for the annual Liberation Day service, when the small piazza in front of the church is populated every year with a variety of people in a variety of ruritanian military costumes; my favourites are the bersaglieri, with ostrich-plume hats dyed in dark colours that wouldn't have shamed Queen Alexandra at a Palace Garden Party circa 1908....except worn on this occasion generally by short, stocky men, strutting around like turkey cocks.
Strangely, since the bells usually drive him to distraction, the four-footed completely ignored them, this morning. And now they and the rest of town have subsided into holiday silence. Sadly, not as sunny today as it has been recently -although, even as I write, the sun is trying to break through.

The house has been swathed for days in heady scents from the garden: the courtyard is dense with clouds of jasmine in bloom; and the office terrace has a light carpet of blossoms which drift fitfully down from the orange tree which now towers above it; across the yard, pendant fat white wisteria flowers edge the roofline of the barn,  and elswhere in the garden various clematis montanas decorate the pergolas. The azaleas bloom generously, as the camellias (finally!) draw to a close, and the roses, industrially heavy with bud, are just now starting to open. Bearded irises are about to burst into flower, on all sides, and already the fruit is beginning to swell on the apricot trees. No photographs to show, sadly, as my camera has finally and conclusively given up the ghost, and the replacement won't be with me for several weeks.

Two nights ago, I saw the first firefly of the year. By mid-May, we shall be inundated with hundreds of thousands of the things...

Tonight's dinner:

Kerala stuffed pancakes (crepes stuffed with keema, breadcrumbed and fried, and then served with a tomato sauce)
Lamb cutlets in parmesan; courgettes with pancetta
Egg-white chocolate soufflé 

Saturday, 4 April 2015

Chicken Jalfrezi






About once a fortnight, we indulge in Indian food. There is an Indian restaurant - possibly more than one - here in Pisa, but we've been firmly warned off going there by the Paoli, who know of what they speak when it comes to Indian food. And so, the only option is to roll up one's sleeves and get on with preparing it oneself. I have several reliable books by Madhur Jaffrey (The Ultimate Curry Bible, in particular, is extremely good), but her recipes tend to be quite esoteric, and are certainly not reminiscent of all those many years of cheap-and-cheerful Indian  restaurants over the decades (from student dives onwards) which are occasionally what one hankers after. Chicken Jalfrezi has long been a favourite,  from the period after my earliest experiences of Indian food, when it was generally a question of choosing Madras or Vindaloo, with an option of Hot, Medium Hot, or Very Hot (depending on how many spoonfuls of curry power the kitchen had stirred into the mixture, just before serving).
This version of Chicken Jalfrezi is largely taken from The Thousand Best Indian Recipes, with the difference that butter is used instead of oil, for a much 'creamier' result, and the meat used is thigh rather than breast meat, since it remains more succulent after cooking.If you're being energetic, you can combine it with Aloo Ghobi, but in general I serve it just with plain basmati rice.

For Two.

Ingredients: 2 tbs butter; 1 medium onion, finely chopped; 2 cloves garlic, pressed; half a green chili, de-seeded and finely chopped; approx 3 cm fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped; meat cut from three chicken thighs, diced into approx 2 cm cubes; 2 tsp curry powder; quarter tsp salt; 1 tsp tomato paste; 120 ml water; half a red pepper.

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a heavy pan, add the onion, garlic and chili, and cook for about four minutes, until the onion has wilted.

2. Add curry powder, salt and tomato paste, and stir over heat for about 30 seconds.

3. Add the diced chicken, and cook stirring constantly for about three minutes, until the chicken looks cooked.

4. Add the water, bring just to the boil, then lower the heat so that the mixture just simmers for about  five minutes.

5. Add grated ginger and chopped pepper, and cook for a further minute.

Either serve immediately, or else keep warm over a gentle heat for five or ten minutes (but ensure that it doesn't get too thick in the process).

Wednesday, 1 April 2015

Spring flowers...

The Big Picture
Ajuga, behind Churchill Narcissi


A four-footed, trying to remember what it was he was thinking about

Allium Triquetrum (and friends)
Muscari 
Looking across the South Lawn
Peach and Nectarine blossom
Roses on the Church pergola, limbering up to do their stuff
Vista behind the Church





Tonight's dinner: we're dining up in Forte dei Marmi, so the menu is as yet a mystery.