Prawn Curry

A re-working of an old standard. This version is the result in part of some lack of concentration on my part, which meant that ingredients got missed out along the way and so were added in a rush towards the end (and it was found to be better), and and in part through a sense of economy - specifically, the use of the heads and shells to make a bisque-light to use in the finished dish rather than just water, as the traditional method suggests. The end result has a creamy texture and is completely delicious.

For two generous servings.

Ingredients: 300g medium sized prawns, with shells, and preferably also heads (frozen and pre-blanched are just as good in this recipe as fresh and uncooked - fresh prawns merely require slightly longer cooking once they are added, at the end of the recipe); 1 medium onion; 2 medium tomatoes; 2 tbs oil (approx - it partly depends on the size of pan you're using as to how much oil is needed); 2 cardamom pods & 2 cloves, lightly ground in a pestle; half tsp cinnamon; 1 green chilli; 2 tsp fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped; 1 large garlic clove, minced; half tsp each of red chilli powder and coriander powder; quarter tsp each of turmeric and of garam masala;  half tbs cumin; half tbs tomato paste; 1 cup white wine.

Method:

1. Shell the prawns and remove their heads; liquidize the shells and heads along with the white wine, and then filter the mixture through a sieve lined with kitchen paper.

2. Heat the oil in a large saute pan, and once hot add to it the cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. Stir for about thirty seconds, then add the finely chopped onion.

3. Once the onion has softened and started to colour, after about five minutes, add the finely chopped tomatoes, along with the ginger and the garlic, and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes, until the tomatoes start to break down.

4. Add the turmeric, garam masala, chilli and coriander powders, and cook for a further five minutes.

5. Add the tomato paste and cumin, along with the wine/shell mixture and the finely chopped green chilli, and stir until the liquid has been absorbed. Turn the heat to low, then cover the pan, and leave to cook for 10 minutes. If the mixture becomes too dry, add water as necessary.

6. Remove the lid and add the prawns. If they were raw, then cook them until they turn pink; if they were already pink, then it is merely necessary to heat them through. Add two generous pinches of salt - more if you wish.


Garnish with chopped fresh coriander, and serve with Basmati rice.

Recipe: Crab Sauce for Pasta

There's a been a recent resurgence of fresh pasta in this household - yes, I know, all those carbohydrates....but making it is so satisfying, and the end-result is so delicious! Once you're practiced, the process of making, rolling and cutting fresh pasta is very quick - three minutes to make the pasta dough in a food processor, then 30 minutes to rest and perhaps a further 20 minutes to roll and cut enough pasta for five people (and add another 20 minutes if you're making a stuffed pasta, rather than merely making strips....last night we had cappelletti filled with a ricotta and parsley stuffing, which was ethereally light). One tip I would stress, though, is only ever to use italian "00" flour - the result in comparison with ordinary plain flour is enormous, and I see that "00" is now generally available in UK supermarkets, and not expensive

At the start of the week, lacking inspiration for that evening's menu I asked for suggestions, and the Technical Department immediately jumped in with a request for Fettuccine with Crab Sauce. Fair enough. Except I then couldn't actually find a recipe anywhere for it - I was surprised to discover that Marcella ignores Crab altogether!

So I made it up.

For Two*

*In fact, the quantity of pasta dough quoted here is sufficient for four or five people - but since the quantities don't efficiently pro-rata down, I always make this amount, and use half of it on one day and the remainder on the following day; it keeps perfectly well if wrapped in clingfilm and kept in the fridge for that time.

Ingredients: fresh pasta, made with 2 cups of "00" Flour, 3 medium Eggs, 1 teaspoon of Olive Oil, and a generous pinch of fine Salt (this recipe is fine for any of the 'flat' pasta shapes: fettuccine, tagliatelle, papardelle...); 1 dressed Crab; 1 oz Butter; 1 Salad Onion; 1 cup Double Cream; 1 tablespoon of Brandy; 1 small pot of lumpfish 'Caviar'.

Method:

1. While the water is coming to the boil for the pasta, finely dice the Onion and wilt it in the Butter in a small saucepan, over medium heat. Add the cream, a forkful of Crab, and the Brandy; stir and heat through.

2. As the water comes to the boil, add Salt and a dribble of Oil to the water, then cook the Pasta - it might take a minute, in all. As soon as it is done, drain the pasta into a colander, and tip the Cream sauce and the remaining Crab into the pasta pan. Stir quickly to mix it all together, taste and adjust the seasoning, then return the cooked pasta to the pan and stir to coat the pasta in the sauce.

3. Serve in heated bowls, and put a spoonful of Lumpfish Caviar on top of each serving - the combination is glorious!

Recipe: Crab Tart

This has evolved from a recipe originally taken, I think, from Michel Guérard, from many years ago. The original magazine cutting has long since gone the way of all flesh, so it's now impossible to be sure. In any event, whatever the provenance, it is fairly delicious....Separating the white and dark meat within the tart is a clever trick, as it means you get two clearly different flavours, rather than just having a rather indistinct compound. The layer of sautéed Leek between the two also works well - not only does it introduce a different flavour-hit, but Leek marries particularly well with any seafood (which is why I always use Leek rather than Onion for the sofritto for any fish-flavoured risotto)

Although this tart rises spectacularly well in cooking, it's best to let it sit and cool down for five minutes or so before serving (during which time it will inevitably deflate) as otherwise it is just too hot to eat, and it won't do itself justice on the plate.

For two individual tarts.

Ingredients: 2 sheets of Phyllo Pastry, each 12" x 6"; 2 level tablespoons of Slivered Almonds; 1 oz Butter; 1 Dressed Crab; the white part of a medium Leek, diced finely; 1 tablespoon of Olive Oil; 2 Eggs; 5 fl oz Cream; half an oz of grated Parmesan; Salt & Pepper; a generous pinch of Nutmeg.

Method:

1. Using the Butter, Phyllo and Almonds, make two individual tart shells (follow the normal procedure for doing this, but sprinkle the Almonds in the base of each tart shell before you add the second layer of Phyllo; this will give a good crisp base to the tart shell). After you've taken the baked shells out of the oven , reduce the temperature from 200 degrees C to 180 degrees C and let it reduce in temperature as you make the filling for the tarts.

2. Separate the white and dark crab-meat, and divide the dark meat between the two tart shells, spreading it evenly around the base of each shell.

3. Heat the Oil, and use it to sauté the diced Leek for two or three minutes, just until it starts to colour. Take the Leek from the Oil, and make a layer of sautéed Leek in each tart shell, on top of the dark crab-meat.

4. In a bowl,whisk the Eggs with the Cream, then stir into this the white meat, Parmesan and seasoning. When properly incorporated, divide this 'custard' between the two tart shells (any mixture you have left over, pour into a ramekin and bake alongside the tarts; delicious cold from the fridge as a snack the next day!).

5. Bake the tarts for about twenty minutes in the pre-heated oven. They will puff impressively, and colour quite nicely as they cook - but be sure to let them cool down slightly before you serve them!

Recipe: Tiger Prawns with Mango....

This came from Raymond Blanc, during his post-heart-attack period when he was concentrating on recipes that got the thumbs up from pretty much anybody whose attitude to food was significantly health-focused. Lots of fish, and natural oils, and low fat. His splendid recipe for smoked salmon with a warm dressing of cucumber and scallions and chili pepper, served over creamed shallots comes from the same collection, and is equally unusual and good. As I recall, in none of those recipes did he put a foot wrong, and was surprisingly successful at meeting both the healthy-eating and gourmet challenges at the same time.
The other plus for this particular recipe is that it's another one that can be done pretty much from start to finish within fifteen minutes, which definitely gets my vote.

For two.

Ingredients: a dozen peeled but uncooked Tiger Prawns; 4 Shallots, finely diced; 1 oz of Butter; 1 medium sized ripe Mango, stoned, peeled and cut into half-centimetre dice; 1 tablespoon of Sugar; 3 tablespoons of Red Wine Vinegar; 1 bunch of Rocket (about the same volume as a Cabbage); 1 tablespoon of Olive Oil; Salt, to taste.

Method:

1. Melt the Butter in a sauté pan, and sweat the diced Shallot in it for about five minutes, until the Shallot has completely collapsed - but don't let it colour!

2. Add the diced Mango, Sugar, and Vinegar and keep cooking over medium heat for several minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the Oil in a separate pan, and fry the Prawns in it over high heat, turning them as they colour. Once done, remove the Prawns to a heated plate, and tip the Rocket into the hot pan. Cook stirring continuously, for a minute or two, to wilt the Rocket thoroughly.

4. Using a serving ring, divide the cooked ingredients between heated serving plates, with a layer of Mango & Shallot at the bottom, then a layer of wilted Rocket, and finally place the cooked Prawns on top. (If you don't have a serving ring then just follow the same process anyway - it won't affect the flavour of the dish, but will just give you a slightly less slick presentation).

Recipe: Scallop Mousseline....

This recipe is quite simply spectacular! Served hot, the flavours are strong, clean and sophisticated, while the texture is firm, but wonderfully light. Served cold, after a night in the fridge, this is one of the most 'more-ish' things I've ever eaten. Beguiling and intense, the first mouthful is a show-stopper........and each mouthful thereafter is just as good, leaving you licking the pattern from the plate at the end of the process.
Eminently dinner-party-able, this can be prepared in its entirety and left in the fridge up until the point that it goes into the oven, or else can be served cold, having been cooked the day before. The choice of sauces to go with it is varied: hollandaise works well, as does a sieved watercress sauce......or even a light tomato sauce delicately flavoured with tarragon... Up to you.

For four.

Ingredients: 400g Scallops, without the coral (for this dish, it's fine to use Scallops which have been frozen); 2 teaspoons of Salt; a dozen grindings of Black Pepper; 1 Egg plus 1 Egg-white; 500 ml of Cream.

Method:

1. Pre-heat the oven to 220 degrees C.

2. Generously butter four individual ramekins.

3. In the food processor, process to a fine purée the Scallops and seasoning; add the Egg +egg-white, and process some more, then finally process the Cream into the mixture. If necessary, use a spatula to clean the mixture from the sides of the processor bowl from time to time, to ensure the ingredients in the mixture are all entirely incorporated.

4. Divide the mixture between the greased ramekins, then cook in a bain marie in the pre-heated oven for thirty minutes. Loosely cover the bain marie with a sheet of aluminium foil before you place it in the oven, as this will prevent a skin from forming.

5. If to be eaten hot, unmould the mousselines into heated shallow bowls, and surround each one with the sauce of your choice. If to be eaten cold, allow the mousselines to cool, then chill them in the fridge and serve them cold in the same manner the following day.

Enjoy!

Recipe: Scallops with Almonds, in a Parsley Sauce

It was the Technical Department's birthday this week, and Scallops were specifically requested as a first course for dinner. And not the same-old-same-old with leeks and Pernod please (nothing wrong with it, you understand, but......it's been done). Some research later, and the following recipe was unearthed from the pages of Michel Guérard - a name that's effectively disappeared during the past thirty years, but which is long overdue for re-discovery: his method for gratin dauphinoise, quite apart from anything else, is both unusual and terrific!

At first reading, this particular Scallop recipe sounds as though the shellfish will be swamped by the other ingredients - not so, though, and the end result is subtle, well-balanced and delicious. As with pretty much all Scallop dishes, it can be done from scratch to serving in under ten minutes!

For Two.

Ingredients: 10 large Scallops (coral removed); 3 oz Butter; 20g slivered Almonds; 1 clove of Garlic; 1 large fistful of Parsley; 2 tablespoons of Cream; 1 tablespoon of Olive Oil; Salt & Pepper.

Method:

1. Blanch the Garlic and Parsley in boiling water for two minutes. Drain, and chop finely (if doing the recipe for a larger number, and the quantity justifies it, you can do this in a processor; when just doing it for two, though, it's easier just to chop finely by hand).

2. Put the chopped mixture in a double boiler or zimmertopf, and add the Cream and Olive Oil over a low heat. Stir throughly.

3. Heat half the butter in a frying pan. When melted, add the slivered Almonds, raise the heat, and cook, stirring, until they become golden brown. Add the Scallops, and cook for 30 seconds or so on each side. Spoon the Scallops onto heated serving plates, then add the remaining Butter to the pan and stir rapidly as it melts; spoon the melted Butter and cooking residue from the pan over the Scallops.

4. Season the Parsley Sauce, stir once more, then spoon over the Scallops. (If you want to be a purist, you can sieve the sauce at this stage to get an entirely smooth consistency - it's a matter of personal preference. I don't bother)

Serve

Recipe: Steamed Clams & Eggs.....

This recipe was passed on to me, recently - I believe it was taken from the New York Times, but before that its provenance is unknown. If anybody could tell me where it came from, and where I might find more by the same author, I would be very grateful! It read 'interestingly' on the page, and I let it sit there for quite a while before I tried it. In practice, it is absolutely delicious - and unusual, too, in that the texture is light, yet the flavour is a beguiling combination of the strong tones from the soy and the onion , along with the subtle flavour of the Clams which pervades the steamed souffle.......


Ingredients: 12 small Clams, scrubbed; 2 eggs; 1/3 cup Chicken Stock; Salt & Pepper; Sesame Oil (small amount); a dash of Soy Sauce; 1 tablespoon of minced Spring Onion.

Method:

1. In a large pot fitted with a steamer rack large enough to hold 2
(8-ounce) ramekins, bring a quart of water to a boil. Divide the Clams between the ramekins.

2. In a small bowl whisk 1 egg until frothy. Whisk in an equivalent amount of Chicken Stock along with a dash of Salt and Pepper. Pour this mixture over the Clams in one of the ramekins. Repeat with the remaining egg. Place the ramekins on the steamer rack in the pot.

3. Cover the pot and simmer for 12 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the steamer. Garnish each with a small drop of sesame oil, a few drops of soy sauce and a sprinkle of scallions.

Serve.

Recipe: Scallops & Leeks with Pernod

I always find Pernod an agreeable surprise in cooking. Somehow, it isn't a flavour that I expect, and when it inserts itself, it manages to add a whole different dimension to whatever dish it's in. A simple mixed leaf salad with a dressing of Oil, Raspberry Vinegar and Pernod is quite stunning, for example. In the recipe given here, the aniseed flavour from the Pernod manages both to challenge and complement the creamy unctuousness of the Scallops and the Leeks.

For Four.

Ingredients: 1 pint Scallops (if very large, quarter them) ; 6 tablespoons Butter; 2 medium Leeks; 3 tablespoons dry Vermouth; 3 tablespoons Cream; 3 tablespoons Shallots, finely chopped; Salt & Pepper; 2 tablespoons Pernod.

Method:

1. Slice the Leeks thinly and saute in 2 tablespoons of Butter over medium heat for one minute. Add Salt & Pepper to taste. Add the Vermouth and cook, stirring, for one minute, and then the Cream. Cook for a further five minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, saute the Shallots for a minute in 2 tablespoons of Butter. Add seasoning, and then add the Scallops to the pan. Cook for another minute, then add the Pernod and stir.

3. Combine the contents of the two pans, and mix together, along with the remaining 2 tablespoons of Butter.

Serve.

Recipe: Tiger Prawns with Chili Peppers....

For Two.
Ingredients: 2 oz Butter; approximately 20 peeled Tiger Prawns; 2 cloves Garlic; 1 large dried chili; half a Cup of Chicken Stock; half a Cup of Dry Vermouth; seasoning; 2 tablespoons chopped Parsley.

Method:

1. Melt the Butter in a heavy frying pan. Add the minced Garlic, and stir once or twice over a high heat, until slightly browned.

2. Add the Prawns, turning them quickly to colour in the hot Butter. Add the Stock and Vermouth. Crumble the dried Chili over the prawns as the liquid bubbles; keep stirring all the time.

3. When the liquid has reduced by about half, add the chopped Parsley and correct the seasoning.

Use a slotted spoon to serve the prawns into shallow bowls and then pour the sauce from the pan over the top. It shouldn't be necessary, but if the sauce is still too thin, reduce it for thirty seconds over a high heat before pouring it over the Prawns.